This pattern is designed for a man (or woman!) with a larger calf muscle in their legs. If you are knitting this for a leg larger than 17″ diameter, you can add stitches to the leg cuff using the gauge as a guide as to how many to add. Then simply decrease the stitches down as you get to the ankle.
Notes from my husband, the guinea pig model for the pattern *grin*: He said the sock is very comfortable and very cushioned, which is something he prefers in his socks. However, I made it with a wool yarn and this made the sock VERY warm. If you live in a warmer climate, we recommend using a cotton blend yarn or something that won’t retain heat quite so efficiently. If you live in a cold climate, wool is probably perfect.
Items You’ll Need
- DK weight yarn – I used Berroco Pure Merino DK Weight
- Size 5 Double Pointed Needles or Size 5 circulars*
- Stitch Marker
- Stitch Holder
- Scissors
- Needle to finish off toe of sock (kitchener stitch) and weave in loose yarn ends
Note: I prefer to use DPNs and my patterns reflect this, but if you use a circular needle, you can use stitch markers in the areas of the pattern which specify different needles to mark where certain stitches should be made.
Gauge:
- 1″ = 5 stitches and 6 rows in Stockinette stitch.
Stretched: 3 sts = 1″
Begin Knitting Your Sock
- co 56 sts with a long tail cast on
- k in rib knit (k1, p1) in the round for 20″ (or desired calf length), pm at the beginning of the round (this is the center back of the sock.)
- Stop at the stitch marker to begin the heel
Shape The Heel
- You can remove the stitch marker at this point
- Slip 28 sts onto a stitch holder
- The remaining sts will be worked into the heel. K 22 rows in St st.
- On the RS, k 19 sts, skp, turn
- *WS: sl 1, p10, p2tog, turn
- RS: sl 1, k10, skp, turn*
- *Repeat the last two rows until all the heel sts have been worked. You should have 12 sts remaining.
Now It’s Time To Form The Gusset
- Put the sts from the stitch holder back onto the needles. These are the instep sts.
- On the RS, k the heel sts you’ve been working with.
- Now along the edge of the heel rows and with a new needle, pick up 14 sts. The key is in spreading them out evenly. This is Needle 1 (N1)
- k the instep: The instep is ribbed: k1, p2, (k2,p2), k1. This is Needle 2
- Pick up 14 sts along the other side of the heel.
- You’ll have a few sts left on the original needle from the heel. k half of them onto the same needle as the 14 sts you just picked up. This is Needle 3.
- Slide the remaining sts onto Needle 1
Decrease The Gusset
- N1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- N2: k1, p2, (k2, p2) k1
- k1, skp, k to end
- The next round is knitted evenly without decreasing:
- N1: k even
- N2: k1, p2, (k2, p2) k1
- N3: k even
- Continue to alternate the last 2 rounds until you’re back to 56 sts.
Knit The Foot Of The Sock
- N1: k even
- N2: k1, p2, (k2, p2) k1
- N3: k even
- Continue repeating this round until you are 2″ short of your desired foot length
Decrease The Toe
- N1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- N2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
- N3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle
- Next Round: Knit even
- Continue alternating the decrease and even rounds until you’re down to 28 sts. Finish off with your preferred method – I used a kitchener stitch in the pictured sock.
Knitting Abbreviations Used In This Pattern
- co – cast on
k – knit
N – needle (e.g. N1=Needle 1, N2 = Needle 2 and so on)
p – purl
pm – place marker
p2tog – purl 2 together
RS – right side
skp – slip knit pass
ssk – slip slip knit
st – stitch
St st – stockinette stitch
WS – wrong side
Need help with other abbreviations? Visit our Abbreviations page!